Monday, July 19, 2010

Hemming A Deeply Curved Skirt



This is the pattern piece I created for the skirt portion.  Last night I was looking at hand hemming apx 140" of hem line.  I decided I did not need to make a deep hem, however past projects I have experienced some trepidation when I needed to hem a deeply curved skirt like this.  Fortunately, I did a good job creating the pattern piece and cutting the fabric and I did not need to make any adjustments to even up the length or raw edge of the skirt bottom.   Even so, I find it difficult and tedious to measure and pin hem lines, especially on a deep curve. 

My solution to this was to straight stitch 1" from the raw edge of the bottom all the way around the edge.  There was a slight puckering in the fabric around the edge where I stitched, however this was a good thing.  The puckered thread pulled in the fabric ever so slightly so that as I folded the raw edge up, it naturally eased in my hem line and I was able to iron a smooth curve.  Next I folded the raw edge into the fold line and folded the edge up once more.  My straight stitching was showing on the wrong side of the garment hem at this point.  I pinned the hem in place and as I finished apx 8-10 inches of pinning, I went back and used a seam ripper to remove that stitching.  The reason I removed the stitching was because I did not want any puckering to linger in the hem.  Had I used a contrast thread it would have proved to be a little easier to remove, but all in all it was not difficult at all.  The thread had served its purpose as a measurement guide and as a means to ease in a smooth curved hem.  Once I finished pinning, I ironed the hem and hand stitched it in place.  Again, I ironed the hem smooth and was very happy with the hem.