Saturday, May 29, 2010

Vest Pockets

This was the most daunting part of the project thus far.  I have not made many pockets in the past and especially the type that are set into the garment as opposed to built into the side seam.  It was making my stomach churn at the thought of cutting through my two front pieces.  My solution was to make a sample pocket first using a piece of denim.  After I was able to accomplish this successfully I felt more confident about moving forward.

My first task was to outline on the garment where the sew lines and cut lines would be.  I then used chalk to mark a piece of black broadcloth just as I had marked the garment front pieces.  I matched the outlines against each other and pinned the broad cloth directly on top of the garment.
The next step was to sew the top and bottom horozontal lines and curve around each corner by about 2 or 3 stitches.

Next I used a sharp pair of clippers to cut the horozontal cut line that ran between the 2 sewing lines and then cut diagonal slits up to the corners of where I sewed previously.
The next step was to pull the broadcloth through the slits to the wrong side of the fabric and carefully iron it smooth.  I like using the starch at this point because I want to be sure I have very clean looking lines
This is the pocket flap.  I have cut two pieces for each side and sewing the rights sides together at the sides and across the bottom section, leaving the top open so that I could flip the right side out and press.  When I am making two duplicate looking items and I really want to be sure they look like duplicates, I like to use tracing paper to sketch in my sew lines. 
As a decorative addition, I put a piece of satin across the top of the pocket flap.  I top stitched around the flap and insert it directly into the pocket opening and stitched it into place  Two more squares of broadcloth were needed to attached to the piece of broad cloth already sewn into the garment, thus creating the pocket.  My final touch was to ditch stitch into the seam of the pocket flap where my satin met the edge of the top pocket.  Doing this secured the satin and ensured that the pocket flap was finished properly at the top edge.