Summer Sun Dress

My daughter modeling the finished dress.

Draping & Sewing Chiffon

The last part of this project was to drape & attach the chiffon.  I decided against using the chiffon under the skirt because it was a bit too much and I didn't like how it was looking.  However, I do like the chiffon around the neck and the back portion.  It took some time working with the chiffon and getting it to drape just right.  I pinned the chiffon in place from the inside of the garment and then used small tacks under the outside fold.  After taking a couple stitches for the tack, I allowed the outside fold to naturally fall back in place where it covered the tack.  Then I carefully took a couple additional straight stitches along the fold line, again tacking against the garment.  Since I lined the inside of the dress, I was able to tack without the tack marks showing on the inside of the garment.  I know it's sort of ocd of me, but I used light colored thread to match the chiffon and didn't want it showing on the inside of the dress which is navy.  I am hopeful I will have some pictures later today of the finished dress that I can share. 

Straight stitch along fold.

Hemming A Deeply Curved Skirt

This is the pattern piece I created for the skirt portion.  Last night I was looking at hand hemming apx 140" of hem line.  I decided I did not need to make a deep hem, however past projects I have experienced some trepidation when I needed to hem a deeply curved skirt like this.  Fortunately, I did a good job creating the pattern piece and cutting the fabric and I did not need to make any adjustments to even up the length or raw edge of the skirt bottom.   Even so, I find it difficult and tedious to measure and pin hem lines, especially on a deep curve. 

My solution to this was to straight stitch 1" from the raw edge of the bottom all the way around the edge.  There was a slight puckering in the fabric around the edge where I stitched, however this was a good thing.  The puckered thread pulled in the fabric ever so slightly so that as I folded the raw edge up, it naturally eased in my hem line and I was able to iron a smooth curve.  Next I folded the raw edge into the fold line and folded the edge up once more.  My straight stitching was showing on the wrong side of the garment hem at this point.  I pinned the hem in place and as I finished apx 8-10 inches of pinning, I went back and used a seam ripper to remove that stitching.  The reason I removed the stitching was because I did not want any puckering to linger in the hem.  Had I used a contrast thread it would have proved to be a little easier to remove, but all in all it was not difficult at all.  The thread had served its purpose as a measurement guide and as a means to ease in a smooth curved hem.  Once I finished pinning, I ironed the hem and hand stitched it in place.  Again, I ironed the hem smooth and was very happy with the hem.

The Proper Way to Adjoin Shoulders and Sew Shoulder Seams of a Lined or Faced Garment w/o Sleeves

I have to admit that I was not thinking ahead when I lined the bodice pieces.  All is fine though.  As you can see in my prior pictures from the other day, I even sewed the garment to the lining at the shoulder seams.  What can I say except, I should never sew late at night.  I ended up having to take those stitches out on both pieces so that I could attach the front of the bodice to the back of the bodice the proper way.

In the past, there has always been an element of confusion in my attempts to figure out exactly how to go about doing this.  What's worse is trying to read directions on how to do this!  I made a costume for my daughter once using a Simplicity pattern and the directions literally had me in a daze.  In the end, I got it... but there is something about sewing that can be somewhat like a jigsaw puzzle.  My attempt today is to provide with clarity, written instructions on how to adjoin and sew shoulder seams of a lined or faced sleeveless garment. 

By the way, when I refer to left and right side, I am referring to left and right as you see the garment  lying on the table in front of you.

• Take the front bodice, turn inside out, lay flat on counter with unlined portion facing up. 
• Take the back bodice, right side out, lay flat on counter with unlined portion facing up. 
• With garment pieces in this position, slide back bodice inside the front bodice. 
• Carefully slide the right back bodice shoulder strap inside the right front bodice shoulder strap, without twisting the direction of straps. Slide up far enough that the raw edges of the shoulders meet and pin in place.   
• Do the same to the left side.   
• Sew 5/8" seam across the shoulders and turn the garment  pieces out so that everything is right side out. 

You are done and you have beautifully adjoining shoulder seams.

Sun Dress Progress Report

I took some time off from sewing recently but I am back again and working towards putting this dress together.  The top portion of the dress is lined with navy colored silk.  I set the lining in more as a facing than a lining.  This was more of an oversight on my part.  Should have gone about that a little differently.  I'll be using chiffon as accents around the neck and the back bodice and  I'm playing around with some ideas on how to do that. 

I plan to shorten the skirt.

The chiffon will go under the skirt and extend below the skirt hem line.   

Working on lining the back bodice.

Beginning of Prototype... Not The Final Dress

At this point, what I have done is to come up with a simple sundress design and I am currently working on minor modifications.  The fabric I used on this prototype is some remnant fabric I had lying about the house.  Once finished I will make a master pattern and start the final project.  The top portion of the dress will be lined and I will be using the chiffon as accents. 

Princess seams, and other treacherous curves! - Threads

Princess seams, and other treacherous curves! - Threads

Another great demonstration from Threads Magazine.